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Old 08-27-2015, 12:50 PM
thelesliehanna@gmail.com thelesliehanna@gmail.com is offline
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Default Shaking on Acceleration

My truck is a 2003 F-350, Lariat, FX4, 4X4, with a 6.0L. As far as I know, the engine is pretty much stock except for a high flow air filter, SCT tuner (I run performance for daily use, trailer mode while pulling anything, and I drive very conservatively doing either), and high voltage FICM with pre-flash programming. I change my oil regularly with AMSOIL, have changed out all the fluids in the drivetrain over the last year, and have installed 4:10 gears to compensate for my 34” tires. The truck has a 3” leveling kit, dual steering stabilizers, new drilled and slotted brakes with rebuilt calipers, and a winch installed on the front. I know most of this information is irrelevant, but you never know what will be relevant until the problem is fixed.



I recently started having an issue with my truck shaking while going down the highway. It started out as shaking while accelerating in higher gears on my way to work. The shaking was so bad that I thought I had a u-bolt or carrier bearing going bad (and fast). Later that day on the way home from work, the problem started out the same, but after a while, the truck would barely accelerate. I would push on the gas, a cloud of black smoke would slowly drift up from the back, and I would start to creep along. It would take 30 to 60 seconds to get up to about 40 mph, and I could not go over 50. Once the truck got over about 15 mph, it would start shaking violently like it did that morning, until I got up to my maximum cruising speed. At that point, if I let off the gas, the shaking would stop. When I either tried to accelerate or maintain the speed, the shaking would resume.



Once I got home, I checked the codes and got P0269 (INJ Cylinder #3 contribution/balance Power cylinder, valve train or injector). I cleared the KAM and the codes. When I took the truck back out to test it, I had most of my power back, but the shaking returned when accelerating around 40 to 50 mph. I took the truck back home and poured 2 bottles of sea foam into half a tank to try to clean out the injectors and let the truck run for a while.



The next day after work (taking another vehicle of course), I stopped by a shop and asked what the problem might be. Along with other possibilities, he suggested that the output hose of my turbo might have come off or blown out. I check this, and it had blown out. I repaired that problem and took the truck out again to test. After cruising around for a few minutes, I started getting the same symptoms: shaking at first and eventually losing all power. Before I got home, I had to stop, clear the KAM, and clear the codes. Again, I got my power back, but the vibrations remained a constant above around 40 mph.



This weekend, I am planning on going in to replace injector number 3. However, I wanted to get some advice first.



1. Is there anything else I should check out first?

2. Can anyone tell me the torque specs for the fasteners (valve cover bolts, oil rail fasteners, injector fasteners, any others that I am forgetting)?

3. Is there anything else I should do while I am in there?

4. Is it possible or advisable to clean the other injectors while I’m in there? I know the preferred method would be to replace all the injectors, but I don’t have the money right now unless it is ABSOLUTELY necessary. If they can be cleaned/serviced, can you tell me how or send me a link to a site that explains the process?

5. I am thinking about replacing the head bolts with head studs. Is this acceptable without removing the whole cylinder head? If I am unable to get all the bolts out (due to clearance issues) is there any harm in replacing the ones I can get to, and would this have any benefit over leaving the current bolts in?

6. I cleaned out the EGR valve about 10,000 miles ago. Do I need to do this again? Could the problem be linked to the EGR system?

7. I replaced the upper and lower fuel filters about 3,000 miles ago. Could these be the problem? Do I need to change them out again?

8. Any other ideas?
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  #2  
Old 09-16-2015, 09:16 AM
thelesliehanna@gmail.com thelesliehanna@gmail.com is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2015
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Engine: 2003 - 2007 365ci (6.0L) Power Stroke 325hp 570tq
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Default

Thanks to everyone who chimed in with suggestions. I wanted to write up what happened in case anyone else comes across this thread looking for possible answers.

I tore everything down to get to the valve covers and removed those. Thanks to YouTube for the helpful videos of how to do that. I pulled all of the injectors and noted the #3 that I was having problems with. While I was in there, I went ahead and put new o-rings on all of the injectors. For those of you doing this for the first time, I suggest doing your research and finding the kit with four o-rings and a copper ring. Some of them only come with two and the copper ring. The kits I bought included the o-ring at the top that seals the injector to the oil rail, and everything fit much tighter.

I put everything back together and torqued all the bolts to spec. I recommend using the 6.0 Bible. That thing is invaluable and I learned a lot more about my 6.0. Here’s where I ran into trouble. I waited until after putting the valve cover back on before connecting the fuel injector harness back up to the injectors. On the last one, I snapped the plastic retaining clip (or whatever you would call that), and the connection for injector #1 got pushed back into the cylinder head. I then had to take everything apart again.

Instead of doing the smart thing and going to buy a new injector, I installed a new o-ring kit on the injector that was causing the problem, checked it for stiction issues, cleaned the tip and replaced injector #1 with the old #3. This time I was at least smart enough to connect the injector before reinstalling the valve cover. I got everything back together and started cranking the engine. I wasn’t worried at first because YouTube told me that I would have to crank for a while to get the air out of the injectors and oil rail. It finally did start, but after a while it would sputter out. I would then crank it again and again getting it started for short periods, but never long enough to get a charge back on the battery. I was having to charge the battery between attempts to start, and it was still cranking forever while I had my foot on the gas before it would start.

I finally got it running long enough to get it back on the road and, like some people suggested on the forums, tried to drive it like I stole it to get the air out. However, it was the worst getaway car you could imagine. It felt like I was running a v-twin in a Superduty, and my girlfriend (who was following behind) was getting choked by all the exhaust.

I got back to the house and checked the codes. Some of the more experienced people here probably already know what happened next. I got a code for injector #1 contribution/balance. I bit the bullet and bought another injector and tore everything down again.

Here is where I got a little bit smarter. I connected all of the injector again as soon as I had it torqued down. Also, after installing the oil rail, I took out the hex bolt on top (or whatever you call that), and filled it with oil. I’m not sure if you can do this with all models because my oil rail looked much different than the ones I saw on YouTube. I also used a wire to clear a blockage where the MAP sensor connects to the top of the engine. It felt like there was a cork blocking the other side before I got it cleaned out.

After getting everything back together, I cranked the engine and it started right up. Since I had filled the oil rail with oil, there was no (or at least very little) air to get out of the system. Now the truck is running better than the day I bought it (which admittedly was a year ago with 190,000 miles on it). I got some codes at first, but cleared those out, ran it a little more, and now everything is fine. Since the last tear down, I have put 150 miles on it and it is still running great. I am sure that there will be no more problems every on this truck!!!!

Hope this helps the next poor sucker who has this problem.
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